Scotland
October 3-19, 2025
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| WHW-Saturday | WHW-Sunday | WHW-Monday | WHW-Tuesday | Fort William | Edinburgh |
Sunday – Inveroran to Kingshouse
10 miles / 16 km
Today’s breakfast was good – much better than yesterday’s bagged meal. The bags were dropped off by reception and we were soon on our way, under the filtered light of a misty sunrise.
Barely-lit morning clouds
The sun struggling to come through
The heavy mist and dew made for a startling scene: hundreds, possibly thousands, of spiderwebs were highlighted in the faint morning light. I was fascinated and tried to capture the magical effect with my phone, but of course, it didn’t even come close.
The trail was the old military road again, climbing slowly up and down the landscape. Dan and I were walking together today, enjoying the warming temperature as the sun eventually came out. We passed a couple of our “trail buddies”, sunning themselves on some rocks near a small lake. Pond? Loch?
Trees protecting stone walls of an abandoned building
The sun started to win against the clouds
Looking down at a stream through the forest
The boggy land of Rannoch Moor
And finally I saw my first real wildlife – a deer! I was surprised by how close it let us get to it, and it was amazing just how well it blended into the grasses of the hills. It made me realize that I’d probably walked by dozens of other animals but just didn’t notice them.
The day was bright and sunny and, to be perfectly honest, the scenery wasn’t what I had been hoping for. The hillsides were barren-looking, with very little variation or visual interest. Yes, it was nice, but it was not fitting into the box I had created for this day. Especially when last night’s hostess said that this was one of her favorite stretches of the entire trail.
Rannoch Moor
More deer!
We stepped off the trail for a quick clothing adjustment – the sun was warm and it was time to shed some layers. Petra also sat down for a little snack. No sooner had we stopped then I noticed this cute little bird. I naively was concerned that it would fly off if we startled it, but it was the opposite: it was looking for a handout. We didn’t give it anything, but that didn’t stop it from asking.
Very rugged rocks in the stream bed – this would be hard to walk across on foot
The military road continues – it was easy walking today
Military roads need good bridges!
Approaching Glencoe
In the distance Dan and I could see The Kingshouse, our night’s lodgings. The name, “The Kings House” evoked such a beautiful, historic, image in my head but this was anything but. The original building was still there, used as a barracks for the army (and not the King himself), but the additional buildings that had sprang up in the 1960s to take in the increased number of guests had been demolished and completely rebuilt into what I saw today: a tasteful and very modern set that overwhelmed the original structure.
The original building from about 1750, built as an army barracks to fight those meddlesome rebels
Dan and I had arrived early in the afternoon, the walking having been easy and fast. I wondered about the tour length: Some people complete the trail in six or seven days, but it was not uncommon to take eight days, like we were. I was of a mixed mind on this: on one hand, I liked having the afternoon to relax and enjoy the setting at the end of the day. But on the other hand, it also seemed silly to essentially waste a couple of hours of walking time just to keep the mileage lower. If I were to do it again, I think that I’d opt for a slightly shorter overall time and slightly longer days. Maybe!
There was an informal information sign near the bridge behind the hotel. I put the text here, as the sign has worn to be almost completely bare, and the only reason I can read it all is because I found an old picture of it on the internet. Yay for the internet!
“Hello! I am the Innkeeper Donald McInnes. I was encouraged to take on the Kingshouse in the early 1770s after a distinguished career in King George’s army. But making a living here has proved a lot more difficult than I had been led to believe!
Breadalbane showed little interest in repairing the roof or putting glass in the windows. The furniture I procured at great expense is already worn out by the inclement weather. Drovers can put up with these conditions, but the growing number of travelling gentry expect comfortable accommodation and the finest of food serve at their table.
I should not be telling you this, but recently I have had to resort the illegal trade in whisky and salt. How else can a man make a living in this God-forsaken place?”
Our room wasn’t ready yet, so we grabbed a table outside in the sunshine and watched for Petra’s arrival. She wasn’t far behind and she joined us as we people-watched. We were in the famous Glencoe region, it was the weekend, and there were plenty of non-hikers around to provide some entertainment.
The view from the other side of the historic bridge
Oooh, a drying rack: air flows through each tube to dry out boots and gear
Despite my grumblings about the newness of the hotel, I really did appreciate finally having a functional shower in our room. The previous showers managed to produce some sense of a shower, but only barely. But here, the water flowed well, the temperature could be regulated, and the floor stayed dry. Civilization!
We met up with our Dutch friends again and enjoyed a drink together while waiting for our dinner reservation to come. Speaking of which: our tour company had given notes on each night’s accommodations and which ones offered meals on site, versus eating locally, and which places where it was “highly recommended” to make reservations the night before. This was one such place for the reservations. I had sent an email, telling them which room we were in, how many for dinner, and an approximate time for dinner. And then I left it at that, knowing that I could just check when I arrived on the day of.
Except when I got back on wi-fi at the Kingshouse, I saw the email response: “We do not monitor this email address over the weekend. We will get back to you on Monday.” Well, that wasn’t very useful for a weekend reservation. When we checked in at the front desk, she asked if we had a dinner reservation. I said that I had sent in my request, but she didn’t see it. Fortunately she was able to get us a spot in the restaurant.
The restaurant was large and rather soulless. I felt like I was in some fancy ski resort, rather than in the rugged Scottish Highlands. But the maître de was good, and doing his best on what was clearly the first night of service for the majority of the restaurant staff. Watching his face fluctuate between the keen frustration of training the staff, and then change to a professional beatific smile for the customers, was amusing. I felt for him.
There was no haggis on the menu, but I did enjoy the mushroom risotto. Dan had the venison and after trying his meal, I slightly regretted not ordering it for myself. It was really tender and had a great flavor.