| Day 1 - Hechingen | Day 2 - Bamberg | Day 3 - Regensburg | Day 4 - Ulm | Day 5 - Home |
Saturday
It was another beautiful morning. We loaded up our bikes and Lorraine led us out of town and into the countryside. She had done a really good job of finding scenic routes so far, and today did not disappoint. It was also a little strange to me to follow someone. I always plan and lead the rides with Dan, and the only times I found myself following was on the few professional tours that we took. Lorraine had warned me repeatedly that she’s a “slow rider”, but honestly, her pace was just perfect. I was able to look around, enjoy the sights, yet still roll through the corners and round out my tires.
Check out that sexy bicycle path!
Cloudy morning with pleasant temperatures
More bike path!
This valley was amazingly beautiful to ride through
The road snaked through the forest up the side of a hill and I was surprised when we found ourselves in the small town of Gößweinstein. There was construction detour – one of many on this trip! – but what was really surprising was the pilgrims parading up the street. We decided to stop for a coffee break and have a look around.
Gößweinstein and castle
Pilgrimage church of the Holy Trinity (1730–1739)
Nature!
Again? What’s the deal, George?
Apparently we were in Fossil-land!
Fossil vending – of course. And your fossil comes with a gift box!
The front of the church
Church detail
Shhhh! No photography allowed – don’t tell anyone
An excellent specimen of a Zunftzeichen
We were back on the road, bellies sated and bladders empty. The landscape opened up and it was clearly farming country. In fact, I was really surprised by just how much agricultural land I had seen on this trip. It gave me mixed feelings: on one hand, the greenery was soothing to see and I appreciated that it was still “natural”. But on the other hand, it isn’t natural at all, with many species of both flora and fauna being displaced. The forests though: I haven’t seen such healthy forests in a long time. They weren’t plantations with trees in orderly rows, but looked like good, natural forests. In fact, I eventually suggested that we stop in one of those stretches of woodland roads to enjoy the silence of nature.
Both of us noticed the church on the hill and I was curious when Lorraine took an exit towards the town of Sulzbach-Rosenberg. It was still midday when we parked the bikes on the main square and made a quick tour of the town, including a stop at an ice cream shop along the way. It was lunch time, after all!
Sulzbach-Rosenberg
It was eerily quiet in town
Fountain artwork
Small, but cozy! I’ll take it
The roads were much faster after we left Sulzbach-Rosenberg and it wasn’t long before we were nearing the outskirts of Regensburg. We were in a long stretch of forest and before we left it behind, we stopped for a few minutes. It wasn’t a proper pull out, but we parked the bikes and walked into the woods to sit on a log. It felt good to enjoy the peace and quiet before heading into the city of Regensburg.
Gotta love the hiking sign – she’s got a special style
Nothing but birds, frogs, and the wind in the boughs
It was hot when we entered the city (31.5°C, the highest temperature I’d see so far on this trip) and the historic district was busy. We pulled up to a public parking garage, debating on where we could put the bikes while we checked into the hotel, as there was no parking provided by them. We decided that we were close enough to the hotel that we’d just park now in the underground garage and haul our stuff by foot. Except that motorcycles weren’t allowed in the garage! And the on-street motorcycle parking area was full. What to do?
Well, we did what any self-respecting motorcyclist would do: we left the bikes out of the way under some trees, got our luggage to the hotel, and then having scoped out the situation, found “a quiet corner” where we stashed the bikes for the night. If the Parking Ticket fairy visited us, then so be it.
The hotel, Herzogshof Boutique-Hotel am Dom, was right across the street from the Dom and wonderfully situated for some historic city exploration. Our room tonight was probably four times as big as the previous night, and far more interesting. I want to know who okey’d putting the door right in front of one of the structural pillars though! I really appreciated that there was air conditioning, although the incoming storm was bound to reduce the temperature quickly.
Boutique hotel, indeed!
We spent the afternoon wandering through the city’s streets – and the cathedral, of course. In fact, since it was just across the street, that’s where we started.
Absolutely amazing skills
Interior of St Peter’s
Ah, to hear that organ!
Stained glass and plenty of light
More whimsy! (from 1908)
The gentleman on the right was apparently refurbished in 2010
I should have gone out during the rain storm to watch these guys spout!
Judensau” sculptures are anti-Semitism carved in stone (related to the above carving)
This motive is to be found almost exclusively in German-speaking areas, starting in the 13th century. Although pigs are regarded as unclean in Judaism, it was falsely claimed that Jews sucked on a sow like piglets. This image was intended to cause revulsion and contempt towards Jews, and as an attack on Judaism. In Christian art, the pig mainly represents the Devil. The claim is thus made that Jews were in league with the Devil, were “nourished” by him and received his teachings.
This sculpture was installed at the cathedral in the 14th century, opposite the Jewish quarter. It shows men sucking on the teats of a sow and speaking into her ear. The men are identified as Jews by their “Jewish hats”.
This inhuman propaganda was used to declare Jews enemies of Christianity. For centuries, hatred was stoked against them in this way. The consequences were exclusion, persecution and even murder.
I honestly have no idea what this is supposed to be
Tonight’s dinner was sparked by a poster at a restaurant advertising Fajitas. Lorraine was immediately in the mood for Mexican and while that particular restaurant didn’t have a good menu, we found Fonda Guacamole where we enjoyed a really tasty burrito meal.
Dinner!
I got the kid’s portion burrito – it was the perfect amount of food
Alley way of “famous people” murals
Another church! The “Lower Minster Cathedral Parish Church”, in fact
It was much more impressive inside than I expected
I’d never see a granite pulpit before!
Oh my!
Please? Just one more drink?
Stonemason’s yard (Dombauhütte) located behind St Peter’s. It is state-run, and neither modern machines nor exclusively old tools are used. Rather, tools are manufactured in the workshop itself
Scaffolding casting its own artwork
Dirndls and lederhosen were seen everywhere!
Modern wheelchairs!
Sunset tones on the Danube
