The city of Thessaloniki has a long, long, history, but most of it is still underground. The recent work to complete a cross-city subway link exposed many previously-unknown archeological sites, some which will be researched and some which will be carefully left intact. But there was much more to the history of Thessaloniki than what was underground. There were many ruins and historical sites that had been dug up and lay exposed under the sun, excavated and sheltered under protecting roofs, or entire buildings that had gone under serious conservation or renovation.
Thessaloniki is situated in a key location: on a good bay and with a rich, fertile landscape. The earliest recorded settlement was in 316 BCE by the Macedonian, and the Romans and Byzantines settled upon those foundations. Most of the historic sites that were still evident were either Roman or Byzantine (which only makes sense). There were many open excavated areas that were free to visit, but the museums were well worth visiting for a more immersive experience. There was also the bonus of very low entry price.
Our first two days in the city we wandered the streets and didn’t make an effort to do any research or see anything in particular. There were so many historic sites that it felt like we stumbled upon one every time we turned a corner. The photos here aren’t in any particular order – I took many over the days we were there, often taking photos of the same site on multiple days. I tried to lump them together, but I make no promises that everything is accurate.
On Monday, we decided to visit the Museum of Archeology. The building had recently been renovated and the displays were very nice and informative. It was a comfortable atmosphere and we spent some leisurely time looking at – and reading about! – the history of the region.
Detail on a sarcophagus in front of the museums’ entrance
I didn’t take many photos inside, but there were two displays that really caught my eye: First of all, I had no idea that the Romans were already making glass as early as the 1st Century. Glass! And not just simple containers, but beautiful, artistic, and colorful designs.
The second revelation was even more surprising to me. I was fully aware of using a sling as a weapon, but I assumed that they just used a bunch of river stones. Well, maybe some did, but others used proper lead balls. And not just “balls of lead”, but balls of lead that were imprinted with the name of soldier or the manufacturer, or sometimes even messages for the enemy. Who knew? Certainly not me.
A clay beehive from 3rd – 2nd c BC
Amazing skill in bringing stone to life
What else do you do with your extra busts and columns? Stack ’em up outside, of course!
From the Museum of Archeology we were going to visit the Byzantine museum, but it was closed that day. That was ok to us, as the city was littered with standing Byzantine (and Ottoman!) buildings that we could go into and explore. I confess that I am not entirely sure which buildings all of these pictures are of, but since it is all about the “beauty of the building”, I am not too concerned.
Ottoman Pazar Hamam
I’d never seen a wooden Chandelier before!
Votive candles
Walking to the big church on the hill, in the “old town” quarter
Inside
Dan signed us up for a free walking tour on Wednesday “with a local”. We and a dozen other people met close to our hostel and followed him around as he gave us a comprehensive overview of many of the sites we’d already seen. But now they were narrated and provided some additional background information to fill in some gaps. Not that I remember much of what he said. “In one ear and out the other”, as they say! There was also a big mix of religion and history, which makes sense, but I really don’t care for religious history, and is probably why a lot of the information didn’t “stick”.
Holy Church of Hagia Sophia
The current structure is from the 7th century
Stopping by the Holy Church of the Hypapante
A site that Dan and I had passed by many times was the Palace of Galerius. It is hard to realize the massive area that this palace covered, mostly because much of the area remains unexcavated, hidden under today’s hustle and bustle. The city did a good job of illustrating the original site, although of course I’d always like “more!” Speaking of which, there is more information at this link.
Palace of Galerius
Artistic rendering of the area, showing the Hippodrome and other buildings
Arch of Galerius – built to honor the Roman Emperor Galerius who returned victorious to Thessaloniki (about 306 AD)
1,700 year old details
Rotunda – built as a house of worship by Romans in the early 300s & known for its mosaics – we did not go inside
Cryptoporticus at the Roman Forum and Agora
Walking down a main street and suddenly you have a hole full of history
Church of Sotir (?)
Old or new? You decide!
I love the brick work in a side room
A great variety of stone and brick work
How can they build anything here without running into “history”?
In addition to the many sites of archaeological significance, there were other old structures dotted throughout the city. One of the most famous in Thessaloniki is the White Tower. It was prominently set at the waterfront and the backdrop to many selfies. We didn’t bother going up into the tower, but it was pleasant to walk by it numerous times.
The White Tower
The “old town”, known as Ano Poli, is high up on the hill above the more modern Thessaloniki. From the wiki article, “The area preserves much of the Byzantine and Ottoman era city design which was largely destroyed elsewhere in the city in the Great Fire of 1917.” It was a surprisingly steep hill to walk up, and then we saw that the town continued down again, and then back up. It was a lot of walking that day! But at the top of the hill we followed along the old city wall for a while.
Old city wall
Portara (one of the remaining gates)
And then, just when you least expect it, we came across this Roman bridge remains at the end of a leisurely walk at the other end of the city.
The remains of an old Roman bridge
Thessaloniki doesn’t have the glory of Athens, nor the beauty of the islands, but it is not without its own charm.